marrakech.

Marrakech is chaos embodied

that's really the best way i can find to describe it.

we arrived at night, 

exausted from a long day on the train.

as was standard for each city we visited,

the most stressful part

was finding the best deal for a taxi

and walking through a maze of streets and insistent men

to find our hotel

i was convinced our taxi driver had dropped us off at the wrong place,

since the square we directed him to 

was nowhere in sight 

we walked determinedly forward

asking women and other tourists for directions

instead of locals

(how silly that should seem)

we found our casa del sol

with a little luck

dropped our things off

and ventured into the unknown

the adventure had given us quite the appetite

it is nothing short of impossible 

to choose a restaurant in 

jema el fna

the square in marrakech.

you must mentally prepare yourself

before walking down an aisle of food vendors.

you think you know what you're looking for

(or at least not looking for)

but you'll be easily confused

easily stressed

by the menus jutted in your face

the men spotting you from 50 meters away

'best price, best price'

'chicken, fish, meat, best menu'

'hungry? time for dinner, best price'

at the end, our choices were rarely made depending on the cuisine

but more because we were tired of being hassled

i guess the odds could have been worse

one night we chose really well

and one night we chose really poorly

the kind of poorly that comes back to you at 3 in the morning

when you wonder, clutching your stomach,

why fate brought you to that particular food stand,

and not the one next door.

alright, i'm being a little overdramatic.

that uneasy stomach,

that's just part of the adventure sometimes

the most thrilling part of marrakech

by far

were the souks

a network of shops 

so thick, so intense

you lose all sense of time

daylight

hunger and thirst are afterthoughts

a complete sense overload

shops upon shops upon shops

everything offers something different

scarves

wooden objects

bracelets

necklaces

teapots and glasses

rugs

more rugs

dresses, shirts

pillowcases

rings

sandals, slippers

spices, perfumes

more rugs

i found the shopkeepers to be

much nicer than 

the food stall workers

yes, we heard our fair share of

'pretty lady's

'fish and chips'

but most of it was on a much

more innocent level

no insults were exchanged

haggling was one of the most exciting things

we did on the trip

our hotel owner tipped us off

with some great advice.

never pay more than half of the price

the shopkeepers give you.

i walked around most of the morning, scouting out 

what i knew i wanted to buy

souvenirs, gifts.

a little

preliminary research

if you will.

when i was ready, i jumped in.

bargaining is 

push and pull

it takes a strong will

but flexibility as well

knowing what you want, and for what price

but the ability to give a bit

a little drama thrown in for spice

and for goodness sake

a good sense of humor.

once you've started the bargaining, 

it's not easy to walk away

so you have to be sure you want what you're negotiating for

before you enter into the dance

to give you an idea of the intensity

i spotted a leather bag that 

i knew would be just right

i eyed it,

opened it

made sure it was what i wanted

and then went for it.

'how much?' i asked

'how much good price for you?' the man rebounded

'no, no, i asked you, what is your price?'

a pause

sizing me up

'for you, madame, 800 dirhams' he said to me out of the corner of his eye

80 euros

i of course knew this was WAY too high

but also knew that i had to play along

'800 dirhams?!! oh no, nevermind. that is way too expensive' 

i scoffed.

''that good price, good price.' he added, to see my reaction

after he gives you a price, you have to rebound with your own price.

'i've seen this same purse in other stores (not quite the truth) 

for 250 dirhams!'

25 euros.

when he proposed me 80

then comes the drama from his side

he laughs at me

'madame, that's impossible. this good purse.

good quality. real leather

i tell you what, i give it to you for 750 dirhams'

75 euros

'no i don't think so, thank you.

i can find it somewhere else'

i look towards the street

'okokok madame, last price'

'mmmm my last price would be 300 dirhams'

30 euros

a fair bit below what he said of course

but it's to be expected.

these guys live for the tourists

who come in, ask a price, and pay the first thing they say.

'i make no profit. no profit for 300 dirhams! last price.'

you dance around for awhile longer

the price hopping between you two

'700!'

'310!?'

'500 student price!'

'320 student price!!'

can't go any lower! 

i'm a student!

it's a beautiful purse

but i can find it somewhere else

even if you're sure that's the only one there is in morocco.

and here's the clencher.

after you've gone as low as you can go.

you walk away.

say thank you, it's beautiful

smile at them, and say goodbye.

and that's where the test is.

if you've done a good job.

you won't be 10 steps away when they call you back.

they'll try to enter into the dance again.

'last price 450 dirhams. 450 dirhams madame'

you hold strong

'no, my last price was 320 dirhams

thanks!'

and with a little luck

and a big smile

you'll walk away with a leather bag

Ever had a bargaining experience?

Tell me one of your travel stories!

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